I have arrived in Thailand at a singularly unique point in the country’s history: the 70-year-reigning king died on October 13. He was beloved, and the country has entered a year of mourning. Celebrations are being canceled or delayed, and the people of Thailand are wearing black and white to show their respect. For those who cannot afford a new black and white wardrobe (the requisite attire for the next twelve months), black ribbons are being distributed for people to adorn on their left shoulder.

The bereft atmosphere is universal. Pictures of the king are present throughout the city, and I have been told stories of neighbors who cried for days upon the news of his death.

I learned that placing your purse on the ground, which likely contains Thai bhat (currency) portraying the King’s face, cannot be done. On my flight to NKP, everyone held their purses in their laps instead of putting them under the seats in front, and I realize now that this is the reason why.

Since being here, I have also learned that Thai people adore food (breakfast conversation typically revolves around what is for lunch, lunch conversation around what is for dinner), take pictures at every possible opportunity (truly – even when all we’re doing is sitting in a café having a coffee, the owner will come pose for photos with us), and that everyone takes pride in their appearance (clothes are pressed, faces are made up – the word for this is riproy).

My past two days here have been filled with orientation and getting to know the other volunteers. We start mornings with pancakes breakfasts at our Field Director’s house, we train in the afternoon, and last night, we went on a dinner cruise along the Mekong River with Thailand and Laos on either side. So far I have eaten sticky rice with my hands, fermented fish sauce, muscles, squid, more fried rice and fried chicken than I care to admit, coconut ice cream layered with rice (Why? I could not tell you. Is it good? Oh, yes) and delicious pad thai that cost me less than one dollar (the only meal I paid for myself, because Thai people show their affection through the giving of food).

For whatever reason, I have had no jetlag to speak of. I’m finding the adjustment period quite effortless, honestly, which I am chalking up to the fact that this is not my first time living abroad or my first time in South Asia (it could be that my life in training is much cushier than my life in the village will be). I was fully prepared for bucket showers and hole-in-the-ground-toilets; NKP has been fairly comfortable by comparison. The showers are chilly but that feels like a luxury more than an inconvenience after a day of wearing all black, modest clothing in 90 degree, 100% humidity heat. The toilets (fully functioning and above ground) rarely have toilet paper, but you learn to pack it in your purse. Lizards scamper up and down the walls and bugs are pretty prominent, but all you can do is adapt. During our “culture shock” orientation, we were informed that we’ll hit a serious wall in about 3 months. I have a hard time believing it, so for now I’ll ride my adrenaline, write about the good things, and keep my jai yen in check.